Why slugging is the new K-beauty trend everyone is talking about | vogue.in

In the world of skincare, K-beauty is the gift that keeps on giving. While some practices, such as double-cleansing, have become a mainstay in our skincare routines, others, like slapping your face for a youthful glow, can take some getting used to. Clocking in somewhere between the two ends of the spectrum comes a fresh K-beauty trend, tried and tested by the masses of Reddit—slugging, the practice of coating your face with petroleum jelly at night for your skin to wake up reborn the next morning. What can this drugstore hack do for your skin and how to make the most of its virtues? We put this question to the experts in the biz, and here’s what we learned.

What is slugging?

While K-beauty popularised the term, Charlotte Palermino, a clinical cosmetic chemist and founder of Dieux Skin, believes that the virtues of petroleum jelly as a skincare savior have been documented throughout history, with Hollywood legend Marilyn Monroe counted among its many fans. The actor is said to have used Vaseline as a primer and highlighter for delivering a soft-focus glow under the lights, and would often apply multiple layers on her face as a moisturizer.

“Slugging is taking a small amount of petrolatum (Vaseline is a widely used option) and applying it on your face as the last step before bed. While it won’t add moisture or hydration to the skin, it serves as a good occlusive for sealing in moisture, thereby leaving the skin softer and more hydrated by reducing transepidermal water loss and stopping water from evaporating,” explains Palermino.

The skincare benefits of slugging

So, what is the payoff you can expect in return? Dr Karishma Kagodu, a Bengaluru-based cosmetic plastic surgeon and founder of Dr Karishma Aesthetics, elaborates, “The balance of dead skin (keratinocytes) and lipids is crucial for your barrier because lipid acts as the glue that keeps your stratum corneum, or the outermost layer of the skin, intact. So, a depleted lipid layer of your skin is fixed by the petroleum found in Vaseline.” Palermino adds that you’ll want to rely on it as an excellent sealant. “Vaseline is occlusive, which means that it acts as a sealant. While it isn’t airtight—nothing in skincare products can form a 100 percent seal—those with dry skin or an impaired skin barrier tend to lose more water due to the lack of oils in the skin. This leads to dry, cracker flaky, or irritated skin. Applying a little bit of Vaseline over your moisturizer can help it penetrate better by slowing down evaporation.”

The ideal skincare routine for slugging

Palermino says that its primary role is to reduce water loss, and when used after hydrating ingredients, it can assist with reducing the superficial signs of ageing. Dr Kagodu agrees, and advises, “For optimal results, apply it as a pre-bed routine after using a gentle face wash. It is important to take away all that extra sebum, makeup at night before applying Vaseline or petroleum jelly. Wash your face and remove all the dirt particles collected on your face and then follow the usual routine of cleanser, toner and moisturiser. Over here, the moisturiser is Vaseline, so apply it as the last step after cleansing and toning your facial skin. It is good to apply a little rosehip oil or rose water before applying Vaseline jelly all over your face.”

Precautions to observe with slugging

While slugging can serve as a saviour for dry or mature skin, both experts advise against using it for acne-prone skin. “Those with oily, acne-prone or sensitive skin must be cautious about not only using products with petrolatum, but any product which is occlusive to the skin as it may clog your pores,” cautions Dr Kagodu. In skincare circles, you’ll find that concerns are also often raised about the nature of petrolatum as an ingredient. Palermino explains, “In the US, the FDA recognises petrolatum as a skin protectant, which means that brands can legally make claims about healing skin. However, products with 30 per cent or more petrolatum must be registered with the FDA. While petrolatum is hardly propping up the gasoline industry, it is a by-product of the petroleum industry, and you’ll want to make sure you’re using triple-refined products as an added precaution.”

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